"Black briefs? Good, they'll last a week"

The Delhi adventure is finally over. This city has more to offer than one could want - in terms of cars, noise and degrees Celsius. We took our train to Jammu hoping to avoid any Kashmir conflict-related unpleasantnesses. The air of disturbance can be sensed everywhere: barbed wires around all government buildings and facilities (that means: a lot), army and police carrying long guns, suspiciousness of many civilians. Perfectly understandable if you consider that occasional Pakistani-Iranian artillery fire exchange still happens.

After few more days in India I think I'm beginning to understand that I don't understand anything. China and Turkey are calm and everything is in perfect order when you compare them to this place. Absurd bearoucracy I mentioned earlier mixes with no respect for rules and law in general. Not that I'm against that - it's just completly different from Europe. Now that I mentioned it - there are some European accents: namely "Sklep u Miska" and "Piotrus Export" in Main Bazar.

Another thing - copying Western ideas and doing it wrong: "hot shower" is a tap with cold water and AC machine placed carefully so its rear is blowing hot air straight into your nose; bus stop sign is placed on a pavement behind a fence, over which everyone climbs to get on the bus. The bus itself in turn doesn't usually stop - if there are just a few people waiting they just hop in when bus slows down a bit. The information about leaving trains is also scarce and the trains themselves don't seem to care about timetable either. But hell, that's one of the reasons I came here in the first place.

Leaving Delhi helped us get rid of the ever-present stench and sights of extreme poverty (about which books have been already written). We await Karakoram and Himalayan sights instead. We already ordered a jeep for tomorrow (roughly mighty 10$ per person) to take us to Srinagar. Will try to write from there.

Oh, and the title quote - it's Krzysiu. Sweating is a major problem here, you know.