Sytuacja podróży jest zbyt cenna by pisać.
The situation of travel is too precious for writing.
R. Kapuściński
Here's an attempt of a different approach to the Tlog. More random stories, less dairy-style writing. Maybe some more useful tips (if I remember them). Credit for this goes to
Natalia.
As usual - pictures will be a bit late. I've got some 'studying' to do.
Georgians don't have much money (average yearly income is around 3 500$), but they have enormous amount of exchange offices and casinos. When something stops working or gets destroyed here - it is left 'as is' so you can find many crashed cars along the roads or ruined houses everywhere else. The capital, Tibilisi, makes impression of average-sized town in eastern Europe. Both overnight train through 2/3 of the country and 0.5 litre of vodka cost 2$. Hell of an image for a country with more than 4000 years of history.
Before we left our friends had told us that Georgian people are incredibly friendly - especially towards Polish. That was later confirmed by Wojtek - a guy hitch-hiking to Afganistan we met in Suceava (Romania). I thought these are all travel stories: one case grows to become a legend, repeated by all. But now I have to add up to this legend:
First day in Georgia, first bar we enter. After we had ordered 'hachapuri' - traditional Georgian meal - one of 3 customers inside asked us where are we from (the first question every Georgian asks). Poland. 5 bottles of vodka followed.
I got my picture published in Batumi newspaper. Reporter was so surprised by a sight of 2 guys with backpacks that he took photo of us, explained us how to get to post office, told us that hotels in Batumi are expensive (untrue, unless he meant 4$) and gave me address to his friend from Gdynia. Figures.
When we were leaving our hostel ("Piramida"), having heard us talking in Polish, a man approached:
- Co robicie w tym zasranym mieście?
- Turyści...
- Z Polski... no, no. Siedziałem kiedyś w Warszawie 4 lata
- A gdzie?
- Jak gdzie? W kryminale!
- Aha. A podobała ci się Polska?
- No kuurwa!
Enough about the people. Now about the mountains.
Caucasus, the tallest mountain range in Europe. Somewhere here stretches the border between Europe and Asia (there are quite a few conceptions). This is unlike any other mountains I've been to before. Although on pictures (again: they'll be here!) it might look a bit like Tatras, the scale is very much different. Mount Mkinwarcweri (Kazbek), the legendary climbers' destination is at hand, (here meaning 'around 3 days'). The town of Kazbegi is squeezed between huge mountains and makes Polish Zakopane seem like an ordinary lowland town.
The character of these mountains is very different from anything Polish. To put it simple - they're dry. There's not much growing here and weathering causes this scenery to look even more dangerous, wild - and beautiful. Tsminda Sameba, a lonely church above the town (around 2080m a.s.l.) is one of Georgia's best recognizable tourist attractions. Everyday a small holy mass is held here, 5 or 6 people attend. It is few hundred meters climb after all. If you continue walking past the church, you're going to reach Kazbek (5047m a.s.l.) - we didn't manage to do that, having neither time nor proper equipment, but nothing's lost. I'll come back here sooner or later.
And the last thing to mention is the absolutely best ride I got - from Turkish/Bulgarian border straight to Kraków. Józef took 4 of us into a truck - he was in a hurry to get home for Easter. A Pole can always count on another Pole abroad.
