15 September 2008

Orwell would be proud

Being a traveller, hitch-hiker, couchsurfer and perhaps most importantly - a European - I'm obviously prone to meet people with mostly pro-western attitudes. But even that taken into account, the level of opposition against the government in Iran is incredible.

The Islamic Republic is a truly bizarre creation. Because the religion is compulsory, people are turning away from it. Arash, a student from Tehran says that out of 24 people in his group, 22 are complete atheists. Ahad is happy to declare (in local Chief of the Police's office) "I hate Islam".

Khomeini is supposed to be referred to as "Imam" - title originally belonging only to the first 12 (or 8 or 10 - depending on Shia Islam's variation) descendants of Prophet Mohammed, but every single person I spoke to was angry, ashamed or simply frustrated with Khamenei/Ahmedinejad duo. As Iranians are rather passionate about politics, the forms these feelings manfested in were sometimes very... well, theatrical: the driver waving his fist through his Paykan's window everytime we passed one of Supreme Leader's huge outdoor portraits (and these are plenty), man tossing bank notes onto the ground and jumping on them passionately - almost all of them have Khomeini's face.

In addition, lack of freedom of speech, "controversial" international politics and good chance for being punished for actions normal for western countries such as having a drink - or a kiss - in public make Iran a hard place to live in. Many are trying to leave - but they declare to return as soon as the system falls.

The last bit of Iran I met already in Armenia in a form of a truck driver going to Yerevan who had stocked up on beer as soon as he crossed the border. After - on his request - I eloquently summarized Iran by "Khomeini - problem, Ahmedinejad - problem, Iran - no problem" he just extended his hand.

People don't want a violent government overthrow after 1979 revolution anymore, but in a nation where Islam is not that deeply rooted such system has to fall apart. It has already started. Just a few more years. Watch.

2 komentarze:

Mateusz said...

Ok, wiec nie wiem czy powinienem pisac po polsku czy po angielsku, ale... both will do - and all i can say is wow.

Not only do all the photos amaze me (not the least of which was the cellophane you were rolling the street-side herb with), but the blog posts as well. I just spent a few hours reading everything from 2006-present. The humor & style of writing is very much to my taste, and my favorite quote has to be:

"Common knowledge is often wrong: it does rain on deserts. Once every two years apparently, but when it does-it's for good. We got soaked on a camel "safari" for a lack of a better word. The rain caused small (10 cm wide) streams appear on the desert rendering it impossible to pass on these stupid beasts. They were afraid of drowning most probably." - lol.


Ale do waznieszyc spraw... za dluzo czasu minelo od naszego ostatniego kontaktu. Mialem czas zaczac... i skonczyc, moje studia w nowym jorku, i teraz mam.. jak to powiedziec, the rest of my life ahead of me?

Anyways, I won't spill out my past 5 years of life stories onto you in a blog comment, but unless you are in-transit on another expedition, lets e-mail or talk or whatever.

Bottomline: you're traveling has intrigued me, and now that I am free (from both school (and, now ex, girlfriend)) it fills me with a desire to travel as well. I know it won't happen immediately, but TAKE ME WITH YOU!

-mateusz

Anonymous said...

Hope to see you again here, it was a great pleasure. and now reading your blog, I should thank you for what you do.